Halifax: Silent Seaside City

Halifax is like a centenarian old man who has shouldered a heavy history and nourished his life.

The night I first arrived in Halifax, it was already more than two o’clock in the morning, and I flew for more than 20 hours. The drowsiness was blown away by the wind and the night.

The taxi drove from the suburbs to the city center. I widened my eyes and wanted to see the city. There is only the light of the street lamps and the window along the road, mixed with mist and fascination. From that time on, I began to solidify in the time of Hafa, and I was quietly flowing in the minute and minute.

Cozy “Ha Village”
Halifax is the capital of Nova Scotia in eastern Canada. When you open the map, you will find that Nova Scotia, such as Canada, has an arm that extends into the Atlantic Ocean. Its coastline is more than 1,300 miles long and is surrounded by sea water almost all four sides. Thanks to the warmth of the Atlantic Ocean, Hafa has a humid climate and is considered to be Canada’s winter “warm” summer cool generation.

With its unique geographical advantage, it has also become an important military and trading port in North America. A narrow waterway connects the two ports inside and outside. The port is expected to see a busy container terminal day and night, as well as a giant cruise ship that is slowly coming from afar.

The daytime of Halifax is more like a quiet town, and the local Chinese affectionately call it “Ha Village.” The pedestrians on the street are two or three, and they are always wearing a windproof jacket, and they are slowly stepping on the steps. Sometimes there are one or two people who are running in the morning, wearing headphones and passing me by.

In my spare time, I often sit on the bench of the Waterfront and look out over the Atlantic Ocean. A Minnan who used to see the ocean and the beach, but still will be impressed by the “blue” of the Atlantic. It is as deep as a gem, and it glows in the sun. The sea seems to be motionless, the seagulls flapping their wings always disturb my view, and the Scottish minors of street performers linger.

Farther away is the small island standing on the island. The island is lush and the houses are covered with red and white lighthouses. The locals told me that there are many such small islands in the nearby bay, which used to be places where pirates hide their treasures.

Halifax’s winter is long and there is plenty of time for me to experience this world of ice and snow. I still remember that when the first heavy snow came, Hafa was about to enter the night, and the outdoor temperature plummeted to minus 15 degrees. The cold is hard to prevent, and the road is even more impressive.

The night sky was dyed into a crimson by a street lamp, and the shadow of the snow fluttering under the lamp. There are shoveling snow trucks that are busy with work. Unconsciously, the snow on the slanting top of the church in the distance gradually piled up, and the cars on the side of the road became “snow buns”. The heavy snow hugged Hafa silently at night.

When it gets up in the morning, the snow has stopped, and the heavens and the earth are refreshing and white. In order to facilitate travel, each household cleaned the snow in front of the door to both sides of the driveway, and piled up higher than people, like a “war”. Children who are not afraid of cold, shuttle freely and vigorously in these “tremors.” There are still a few naughty people in the park, and a “snowboard” is used to slide down the slope from the snow. Some children did not master the center of gravity, and even the people took the board and planted it into the snow. He quickly got up, shook the remaining snowflakes, and smiled back to the top of the slope. On the benches beside the park, the parents of the children sit together. They sometimes chat and laugh, and sometimes turn their heads to care for the children. The bright sunshine poured over their shallow smiles and they spilled out a little.

Cricket and master
Near Christmas, I was invited to visit the Cricket and Masters. They are Chinese couples who came to Hafa three years ago and lived in the suburbs of Hafa, which is also a concentrated residential area in Hafa.

Their house used to be a homestay for tourists, with three floors, and five light bedrooms. Although the house is large, it is filled with shackles and masters: hand drills, cutting machines, hardware sets, 3D printers… the crowded storage room can only accommodate the next person. The labor cost in the Hafa area is very high, so it is so small that it is used to tidy up gardens and tiling bricks. It is so large that it is used for carpentry and repairing roofs. People tend to do it personally, and the masters and the masters naturally follow the customs.

How can life have only trivial tools? Their studio is full of the style of life. There is a clean desk in the studio, a felt and a few brush on the table, and a few master ink paintings on the wall. Behind the desk is an open window that reveals the smell of ink. The painting paper on the ground is divided into several hills and scattered throughout.

There are also many flowers and plants in the studio, mostly green potted plants with large leaves. One of them has a strange appearance, and the curved stems are neatly arranged with a flower shaped like a heart. Each “heart” hangs down and hangs out a drop-shaped flower. It has a unique name – bleeding heart (the heart of the blood), which is the master’s model.

The master cool patriotic painting, often staying in the studio is a full day. He will also go to the local Confucius Institute in Hafa on weekdays as a part-time Chinese painting teacher. Because of his lectures, such as the masterpiece of the painting and calligraphy industry, everyone took him to joke, he named him “master.”

The sky gradually darkened and finally arrived at dinner time. We moved to the balcony, a translucent glass space. When I put down dinner, the sunset burned red in the sky. The balcony is facing a path through the withered maple forest, and at the end is the endless blue sea. There was a lop eared rabbit in the corner of the balcony. It pulled its ears and held a small hand, and the nose looked around and looked around.

This kind of life can be seen everywhere in Hafa. The Hafa people only deal with things they like, time passes very slowly, and they don’t have to worry about what will happen the next day, because every day they experience the same thing, the same person. They are light and calm, quiet and serene.

He and the master joked that this is called “good mountain, good water, lonely.” Every week, everything seems to be a careless life, but it is orderly and refreshing. Of course, the price is to endure three years of being displaced, dependent, and even confused and painful.

Fortunately, Lonely did not engulf them, and Hafa became their “Xanadu”.

Two shipwrecks
It is hard to imagine that such a quiet city has had a terrible big bang.

On December 6, 1917, the Norwegian cargo ship “Imo” and the French merchant “Bronze” met in the narrow waterway of the Haffa seaport. According to international practice, both ships should take necessary avoidance measures, but “Imo The number has inexplicably deviated from the course and headed for the “Bronze”.

After a loud bang, the two ships collided, and the 3000 batch of explosives and flammable products on the “Bronze” were ignited, which led to a terrible explosion. Thousands of people died on the spot, and large houses were instantly turned into soil. gray. This is one of the most serious explosions in human history, and the entire Hafa has been almost flattened.

On the hillside of Hafa, the Halifax Big Bang Memorial Clock Tower stands. The documentary photos after the explosion were also displayed in the Atlantic Maritime Museum. It includes smoke from the clouds at the time of the tragedy, relics of the children killed in the disaster, houses burned after the disaster, and so on. They clearly record the truest appearance of Hafa after the explosion, warning the future generations not to forget the lessons of the past.

A recliner in the museum caught my attention. Its backrest is engraved with a five-pointed star, which is the symbol of the British White Star Steamship Company. There are other salvage around the recliner: a piece of finely carved eucalyptus trim, several pieces of stair handrails, and yellow brass clasps on the crew’s uniforms… all pointing to the world-famous luxury cruise ship, the Titanic.

On April 15, 1912, shortly after the Titanic left New York, it hit the iceberg and sank in the North Atlantic, and the sunken waters were only over 100 miles from Hafa. Hafa received the first distress signal and sent the rescue fleet the first time. However, people who fell into ice water could only survive for more than half an hour. Most of the drowners failed to overcome the cold and fear. They were killed in the cold water before the rescue fleet arrived.

After the shipwreck, the remains of many victims were transported to Halifax, where more than 50 were taken away by relatives and the rest were buried in three cemeteries in the city of Hafa. Because their identity is unknown, most of their tombstones are simple sloping sloping stone tablets, engraved with the words “Death on April 15, 1912.”

The director of “Titanic” has also come here to find inspiration. The name of the male protagonist “Jack” is taken from a tombstone of a victim engraved with “Dawson”. Thanks to this fascinating love story, there are countless flowers in front of the “Dawson” tombstone, and visitors are woven.

Tocqueville said: “When the past no longer illuminates the future, the hearts of the people will linger in the darkness.” Fortunately, we also have a maritime museum and a memorial cemetery, which quietly display history and guide us to understand the far-reaching story. .

Halifax is like a 100-year-old man. He has shouldered a heavy history and nourished his life. He speaks a little words, whether it is thrilling or self-satisfied, and he is always hidden under the silent appearance; Unspeakable, we can always read the traces of the years from his face and read more stories of cruelty and warmth.