This is a cycling experience of nearly two months in 2016. One day in the first ten days of October, when I was thoughtful at home and had no thoughts, I thought and decided to go to Tibet in the golden autumn season. Then, I immediately began packing my bags. I went to the next morning to go through the travel documents needed to enter Tibet, and left home at around 4 pm. This is a trip with only directions, goals, no plans and route planning.
From Kunming, all the way to the west through Dali, Lijiang and Shangri-La. From 214 to the same road, this is the most beautiful road in China’s autumn, but it is also the road with the most complicated road conditions and difficult walking. The different scenery of this road is like a movie in front of the scene. The biggest difference between locomotive travel and driving travel is that locomotives and cyclists are surrounded by nature, feeling the warmth and the wind and rain of nature in the most intimate way, and the body and heart will be strongly shocked and shocked by nature. An unparalleled feeling is very obsessive and yearning. ADV (Motorola Vehicle Adventure) rides on the plateau with ease of action. It goes up the slope, slows down and bends to accelerate the exit, and it doesn’t mean to drag the water. However, with the turning over the Baima Snow Mountain, the rear brake of ADV gradually feels lost. In fact, this is a common problem of ADV. When it comes to the plateau, the brake pump will enter the air to attenuate the rear brake, but fortunately, this is for me. Not too big a problem. In Lulang, I wandered around the field trails and stopped at the place where I left my footprints many years ago. At that time, I even felt that this was a paradise. Less than an hour after the sun set at 18 o’clock, I decided to go to the Sejila Pass to see the sunset in Nanga Bawa. The 30-kilometer uphill bend exhausted its fastest speed, bending as far as possible on the right corner of the line of sight, and rubbing the road on the outside of the foot several times. It was about 19:09, and the moon came out silently from the side of the main peak of Nanga Bawa. I felt the whole goose bumps all over and a little shudder, and the breathing became short, because before I have never done the mental preparation when I saw this scene.
Shannan is the birthplace of Tibetan people and cultural decline. It can also be said to be the land of Tibet’s soul. After passing through Lhasa Gongga Airport, it is close to India and Bhutan. It is the secret place of Tibet. At this time, the most characteristic scenery of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is unobstructed, with snow-capped mountains, lakes, hot springs, canyons, grasslands, virgin forests and temples.
About 400 kilometers from Lhasa to the county, most of them are tarmac. It passes through the Naidong District, where the Shannan government is located. This is the main road from Lhasa to Shannan. Some big cars rushing on the road, regardless of the scene of the opposite car forced to overtake often encountered, the rider is often ignored by the crazy driver, if the ride is not highly concentrated, always alert, early initiative to avoid, the consequences are unimaginable.
After the Nadong district continued to the south, the road began to climb sharply and slowly entered the wilderness of the inaccessible, blue sky, white clouds and mountains. The pure white cloud floats like a blossoming soft cotton on the top of the head, seemingly within reach. The road stretches flat and wide to the end of the distant mountains. In the shadow of the clouds, like a thin line, you can’t see the side at a glance. There seems to be only one person walking around the clouds in the whole world. I screwed the throttle and let the engine roar, and I was able to get off the bus and stay in the car.
On the way to the wrong place in Cangyang Gyatso’s hometown, I turned over the 5,000-meter-long snow-buddala pass, and under the clear blue sky, I took a sundial like a mysterious girl with a veil of blue satin. Now. As the locomotive moves to change the scene, the Japanese scorpion shows the graceful figure from different angles, and the purest glamour in the Himalayas.
Although it was only 30 kilometers from the wrong county town to Lebugou, I experienced an alpine world roof at an altitude of 4,500 meters and descended to a subtropical humid valley at an altitude of 2,800 meters. Lebugou is a large canyon that stretches southward in the eastern part of the Himalayas. The unique geographical environment creates a beautiful original environment. Snow mountains, meadows, flower seas, virgin forests, waterfalls, streams, and rare birds are called “Loebs”. “(Tibetan means “good place”) is no more appropriate.
When I slowly rode to the Bola Pass, the thermometer showed minus 5 degrees Celsius. At this time, there was frost cover on the road surface. Suddenly, a winding mountain road appeared in front of my eyes. It was like a green dragon. It danced in the mountains. There were more than one hundred turns from the Bar La Pass to the bottom of the valley. Look at it and turn back to the bottom of the valley. At this time, the tempering of the locomotive is as if the tamed horse is in control. For the locomotive rider, such a road is almost perfect, and the large loops with wide sight and wide roads are the most exciting and fascinating, and the number is more. All are enjoyable.
Going to the end of the road is the forest. It is really refreshing and there is no trace of anxiety and burnout. Some embarrassing is that the engine roaring from time to time makes the birds fly around. After more than an hour of stop and go, I finally arrived at the fascinating Lebugou. Here is an important branching road. A few kilometers to the left is the Tawang area. To the top, you can explore the footprints of the masters of the lotus and the departure of the Tsangyang Gyatso. I did not hesitate to continue riding from above. Along the way, cliff cliffs, playful monkeys and waterfalls flow down the river. Going forward, I saw a small house of more than ten square meters built with stone blocks. It was the palace of the Sixth Dalai Lama’s Cangyang Gyatso. There were some utensils for the Hada and the sacrifices outside the house. Visible mottled murals. Colorful prayer flags hang from the ropes pulled out from the center of the roof.
The Dongzhang Waterfall in Langpogou is located in the southeast of the county, 30 kilometers away from the wrong county. The road runs down the slopes of the Langpo Valley, paralleling the clear waves of the river. Although the rivers of many sections spread, they did not hinder the riding. As the altitude drops sharply, the climate changes drastically, turning from windy and cold to warm and humid.
After passing the border checkpoint in Langpo Township, the road was turned from a flat road to a gravel road. On both sides of the quiet path, the vegetation is flourishing and diverse, and the valleys and waterfalls are endless. This is the most original ecological environment in the southern part of the Himalayas. I just rode leisurely, stop and go.
Come to the Langpo River, sit by the river, look at the waterfall, and fly to the horizon.
When riding in this area, through the border guards, officers and soldiers will be friendly and serious to remind people to pay attention to matters, but also to specifically explain the weather and road conditions. In the difficult place where the roads are difficult, the officers and men will take the initiative to help the cart, which is like a friend. They are stationed at the high altitude of four or five kilometers all year round, and the living environment is extremely bad. Their pay is in exchange for our peace and peace today, it is great!
Millennium seabuckthorn forest
To the north of the county, along the winding mountain road next to the holy lake, take the mountain road to the Niem River Valley, along the Niangmu River Valley, there are about 2,000 acres of ancient sea buckthorn forest, Quzhuomu Township The seabuckthorn king forest has more than 800 acres. The seabuckthorn forest is about 15 meters high and the tree is the thickest 4.5 meters. Every sea-buckthorn tree has a history of thousands of years of growth. The thousand-year-old ancient sea-buckthorn forest that is wrong is called “Racine” by the locals. The tree of souls is the tree to which the soul is attached.
In front of this vast sea buckthorn forest grows in the snowy plateau with an altitude of more than 4,000 meters. Each tree is free and unrestrained. It is in a variety of ways, and it is vigorous and vigorous. Many of the fallen, seemingly decaying seabuckthorn trunks have grown new branches and are leafy. Amazing life! It seems that this sea-buckthorn tree in the snowy plateau of the Buddha is also reborn and the afterlife.
The Qinglan Plateau is known as the “life-forbidden zone”, which has made many people daunting. But in this land, millions of Yi people have been raised for millions of years. They guard this magical and cold forbidden zone. The most splendid, horrible miracle of life. Is the Millennium Seabuckthorn Forest a symbol of the tenacious life of the Tibetan people?
For most travelers, Yanghu is an end point, but if you want to explore the secrets of Shannan, then this is only a small beginning, so I started the journey of the secret from this “small start”. Follow the sheep lake and go south to Langkazi County to the south. Over the 5,000-meter-high mountain pass, I came to the lake of Pumo, the southern part of the lake is the mighty Himalayas, and the side of the mountain is Bhutan. Going south along the road to Pumo, he came to the village of Pushwa, which is called “the highest village in the world.” When I arrived at Pushwa Village, it was already dark. I could only try my luck to see if there were any fellows who would like to stay with me for a night. Knocking on a door with a bright person, the woman who opened the door saw me a little surprised, but still enthusiasm to invite me into the house. At this time, their family was roasting a beer in the house. When I thought about it, it was almost the same. I pointed to the long chair and asked if I could sleep here. One of the boys would have some Chinese. When they were temporarily translated, they nodded and agreed. Looking back now, they have left a stranger with a language barrier to their home, and I also broke into an unknown world. In fact, everyone needs courage and tolerance. Well, this experience is very wonderful.
No man’s land
From the east coast of Pomo’s fault, turn over a mountain, all the way south through the no-man’s land, to the Nha Tsongjia Glacier, also known as the 40th Glacier, under the Zhuomu Lakang Snow Mountain on the border of China and Bhutan. The road surface of this section is basically gravel, potholes and floating soil. In most cases, you can only ride carefully along the deep rut and control the throttle smoothly. The speed cannot be too fast or too slow. A good line and a little bit of oil quickly passed. Because there is no rear brake downhill, you can only drop to the first gear and then add some oil to the bend. If you don’t control the front brake, you can’t avoid the side slip, so the sad reminder happened, I reversed.
After turning over the mountains, all the way to the south, you will reach the Shannan no-man’s land with an average elevation of 5,400 meters. Here, no one, no road, no signal. The biggest difficulty in riding here is over the glaciers and reversing on the soft frozen soil. Every time I pass the glaciers, in order to ensure the safety, I have to design the passages. In order to avoid the big stones and obstacles in the water, I have to go down the river to detect the reality. After all, if the consequences of reversing in the river are unimaginable. However, in fact, reversing usually occurs when the locomotive rushes to the muddy ground and frozen soil on the river bank, but it is really difficult for me to lift the locomotive with a weight of more than 300 kilograms on the loose mud and frozen soil. Things. Sometimes when I lift up half of the locomotive, I will exhaust most of my strength. The locomotive is still between falling and not falling. At this time, my mind is nothing, and I am shuddering until I have lifted my feet on the ground. The body, struggling with a sweat, squatted on the bag for a few minutes to recover, and repeated several times a day, hands and feet almost cramps.
When I arrived at the Kuzhao Glacier, I was deeply conquered by its grandeur. When walking on the ice, there will be a crisp sound of ice cracks from time to time, and the ice cracks on the lake are also very good.
The journey of riding alone in two months is about 10,000 kilometers. Turning over one mountain and another, taking a step by step, each destination is the starting point of the next destination. Bumping through the no-man’s land, reaching out to touch the ancient civilization that flourished thousands of years ago. Reminiscent of every landscape and change that I used to ride alone. Along the way, looking back at every mountain pass, looking at every firm and straight mountain and glaciers, all of them feel the magic of nature, and the fear of awe is born. Sighing the smallness and greatness of life. Lonely but there is no lack of warm journey, on the road, every day in life.